Homebrew Recipes: Pale Ale

Hopped Light Malt Extract – 1 can
Light Dried Malt Extract – 2 lbs.
Crystal Malt Grains – 6 oz.
Hop Pellets – 1 oz.
Ale Yeast – 1 pack
Priming Sugar – 5 oz.

Starting Gravity: 1.043-1.045
Final Gravity: 1.010-1.012
Approx. Alch. by Vol.: 4.3%


  • Remove the label from the can of malt extract, wash the can and place into a pot of hot water to soften the syrup.
  • Place 1-1 1/2 gallons of water in the brewpot and bring to a boil.
  • Turn the heat off. Place grains in a seeping bag, and seep in the hot water for 20-30 minutes. Then remove and discard the spent grains, and bring water to near boiling.
  • Turn heat off. Stir the water with a long handled spoon while slowly pouring in the malt extract. Continue stirring while you add the dried malt extract and hops. Stir until dissolved, then bring water to a boil. Note: When it first boils, the mixture will foam. Reduce heat and foam will subside. Turn heat back on and repeat process until foaming stops. Boil for 20-30 minutes.
  • Place 3 gallons of cold water into your fermenting bucket, and slowly add the hot mixture. Top off with cold water to 5 gallons.


  • Allow the mixture (called wort) to cool to 90 degrees F.
  • Sprinkle the yeast over the top of the mixture. (Optional: Allow to sit for 10 minutes and then stir wort gently with 1 or 2 strokes of a long-handled spoon.
  • Seal fermenting bucket, and allow wort to sit for 2 weeks before bottling.


  • In a small saucepan, heat 1 cup of water and the priming sugar. Mix until dissolved and bring water to a boil.
  • Siphon beer from fermenting bucket to the bottling bucket. Slowly add the warm sugar mixture. As the bucket fills the mixture should mix thoroughly.
  • Don’t allow the siphoning hose to pick up sediment from the bottom of the fermenting bucket, leave 2-3 inches from bottom of bucket.
  • Bottle beer using spigot and bottle filler from kit. Cap bottles.
  • Store bottles in a cool place and allow to age for two weeks before drinking.

5 thoughts on “Homebrew Recipes: Pale Ale

  1. Pale Ale label

    This batch had me nervous for a while. Usually I crack one open a week after bottling just to sample and measure it’s growth throughout conditioning. At the one week point there was zero carbonation. Then, at the week and 6 days point (when I usually consider them ready to go) there was zero carbonation.

    I moved them from the basement, wondering if the cold weather had stalled carbonation. Turns out that must have been the case because a few short days later they poured a decent head.

    This beer is definitely a mild pale. Not much by way of hops. The prevalent taste is citrus. Not much to speak of as far as aroma is concerned either, kinda yeasty.

    It pours a decent head which dissipates into a quarter inch watery film relatively quickly. No lacing.

    I’d give this one a C+ overall. It will be interesting to see how it changes over the next few weeks now that carbonation has taken place and it can properly age at room temperature.

  2. I’m no beer aficionado, I just know I like dark stuff.
    I’d like to try home brewing at some point. $3 for a six pack sure beats store prices…

  3. Try Yuengling’s Porter. It’s a nice intro to Porters, usually retails pretty cheap comparitively. Porters tend to be a little more smooth and less burnt coffee tasting than a Stout.

    I mean, there are obviously considerable start up costs. My equipment kit retails for about $75. And you can expect to drop about $50 on two cases of bottles (although you can reuse old bottles as long as they’re not screw tops). You’ll have misc. expenses along the way as you get started as well.

    But I’m getting the pre-packaged ingredient kits for $28-$32. They’re usually considerably more online, so you may want to track down a local place where you can buy them. The kits yield about 48 beers. So I’m paying roughly $3.50 to $4 per six pack.

    If you can boil water, you can make beer.

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